The Books Of Photography What To Buy

The Books Of Photography What To Buy

There are thousands of photography books on the market. Some are just summaries, other image collections, others are real masterpieces. Extricate though the shelves of a library is not easy, especially if you are beginners. Among the thousands of books available only a few are capable of interfacing with readers in a simple and direct, with clear language and accessible to everyone, including beginners. My goal in this article is ndirizzarvi to these volumes, in the hope that they will enrich your library but especially your photographic juices flowing.

Photography Courses

Scott Kelby is probably a good starting point for those who want to approach the world of photography or for those who need to extend their capabilities the author has in fact published four volumes is particularly interesting for those who are ignorant of photography (the first) and for those who want to develop (the next three). This is basically a very good school of photography to accompany photographers neophyte from toddlers up to advanced techniques.

Besides the already mentioned Scott Kelby, another author to add to their library is Michael Freeman, author of many books on photography for all budgets and all levels of photographers. In particular, very interesting for those who want to work on the techniques of composition in the following volumes

For those who wish to delve more targeted topics, recommend three books that deal with, respectively, the photograph in black and white, the importance of lighting in photography and the vision of the photographer, a volume in which Freeman explains how to interpret the images of the great teachers of history and draw valuable lessons.

Michael Langford is the author, among other things, of two treaties particularly appreciated by the public and photographers. The New Treaty of Modern Photography is a guide that covers all aspects of photography, from capture to printing, with simple language and be able to drive even newbies. The second volume, the New Treaty of Advanced Photography is instead intended for aspiring professionals and includes a series of tests to practice their skills.

The history of photography

I suggest, for those who wish to delve into the history of photography, reading books authored by Graham Clarke (The picture. A cultural history and visual) and Beaumont Newhall (History of Photography). The second is a volume that traces an analytical history of photography from its invention, while the book signed by Clarke traces the history of photography through images of the leading interpreters of this art, focusing on the representation of landscapes, cities , portraits and so on.

Stacking Images For Editing Photo Tips

Stacking Images For Editing Photo Tips

In the series of three photographs shown above, the first two have the same subject photographed in a very short time away but focusing in the first case on the head, in the second case on the wings. The Photoshop the photographer has so combined the two photographs obtaining the result shown in the third. As we see, the fly did not move which allowed us to avoid any kind of shake-that would otherwise invalidate the final result.

Obviously there are the precautions to be taken to use this ranking technique:

the use of a heavy stand. It must be heavy.
The use of an aperture of f / 4 is recommended: prevents the diffraction and the shallow depth of field does not interest us.
the use of a shutter remotization
maximum precision and sensitivity in maintaining but changing the focus: you do not move the camera even half a millimeter (from which the first point)
The subject must be stationary, motionless. Otherwise shake-time

After making the shots, you have to go to their work There are two ways forward: the first is called Photoshop. The second is given by a series of free software specially created for this purpose, as the Combine.

Combine on there is very little to say, the software is very intuitive and quick. Once the images are loaded, you may need to help the program to align the photos (usually does an excellent job automatically) after you leave work. Ease of use, however, was affected with the final image quality. We have worked with the JPEG file, and then the final quality that can not be lower than that of origin. This also means having a series of artifacts in the image, artifacts that must be corrected with a more powerful photo editing software: other decay in quality.

The best solution but also the most costly in terms of time and skill, is to use Photoshop. Although the known program has an ad hoc scripts for stacking: try to go to File Menu> Scripts> Load Files into Stack.

The stacking of the images, then, becomes important when we particularly limited focus area, we can not increase it, and we do not want parts of the subject is out of focus: to solve, the photographer takes a series of photographs by changing the focusing point focus “moving” gradually to cover the entire area. The number of photos depends on how long you want to then spend the postproduction: two clicks are sufficient in most cases but for subjects to be printed in very generous in size may not be enough.

The Anti Aliasing Filter

The Anti Aliasing Filter

An optical filter low pass filter (OLPF), sometimes referred to as an anti-aliasing filter, a filter is present in many digital cameras (except for certain specific models, including the Nikon D810) and is located directly in front of the sensor camera. The main role of the filter OLPF (anti-aliasing) is to stop the high frequencies (we speak of waves hitting the sensor) and reduce the moire and false colors caused precisely by the high-frequency waves in the images. The Moiré pattern, remember, occurs in scenes containing repetitive details such as the tissues (especially in clothing) or in the vertical lines present, for example, in architecture. The repetitions that are in tissues or in architecture are repetitions manmade and difficult (or impossible) to find in nature, which limits the Moire effect to certain types of photography (for example, the nature is not affected) .

The anti-aliasing filter (OLPF) is generally constituted by two layers of glass and one birefringent susceptible to certain wavelengths. In the image below (taken from the website Nikon), it is seen how the light is divided when it passes through the three layers (or rather, is moved only a set of frequencies, by the central layer).

In addition, in order to improve the chromatic yield of the camera, two layers (the middle and close to the sensor) are processed in order to be, respectively, anti-reflective and absorbent Infrared.

IR coating, AR coating, and glass IR absorption are also used to obtain the best features of

Digital cameras that do not have a OLPF allow the sensor to record even the information contained in the high frequencies, which increases the sharpness of the overall image. Conversely, of course, these cameras pay something in terms of Moiré or false colors.

However, digital cameras are incorporating sensors with a resolution increasingly high. Higher resolution sensors are sensors with photodiodes smaller and smaller photodiodes are less prone to moire and false colors. In practice, the anti aliasing filter to remove a camera from high enough resolution is a relative risk that pays in terms of final image quality. The same Nikon introduced, in 2012, two versions of the D800, with and without anti aliasing filter the D800 and D800E (who has tried both realized as the difference in terms of artifacts is negligible).

Modern digital cameras are also designed to offer the best possible performance both in the sense of quality that the color fidelity. Sensors with a higher density of photodiodes, of course, also entail a greater noise modern technology, however, it is managing to compensate for this problem with the same quality

The Goal – How It’s Done And Focal Lengths

The Goal – How It’s Done And Focal Lengths

The goals are the most important component of the camera in addition to also be the most expensive economically. Composed of a set of lenses, the latter can be constructed in different materials (in mobile are plastic) and they can be applied to different treatments. In operation, therefore, the material, treatment, processing and the number of lenses in perspective, the price can vary from a few hundred euro up to tens of thousands. It goes without saying that the interests of poor quality will return results qualitatively poor quality … but the combination  price is not always the case you can find on the market of the objectives from the very low cost but by excellent performance as well as the super expensive lenses can, in certain situations, to be almost useless.

This is due to the fact that there is not an objective, but the objectives You will never see a photographer shooting with only one goal, often with him there will be at least another couple, in order to cover all the different conditions that can be found before the tele, wide angle, the fixed optics. All targets that excel in their field of application but which, when used out of context, can create more than a few headaches. The example that I always do is that of fixed lenses inexpensive because of the few elements, they offer a very high brightness and are perfect for pictures in places where flash is prohibited, as well as for portraiture. But try to photograph us a panorama you will be disappointed.

We have already introduced the objectives in Article Targets – General. Let’s now in more detail and see how is made and what are the different types of targets present on the market.

First of all, we observe a target a first analysis we can identify the functions available on the outer body. In the part more distant from the camera there is the ring of connection to the filters over which the lateral groove for the use of a lens hood. Moving toward the body, we find the ring of focus (always present), the distance scale (zoom, if it is a varifocal lens), the aperture ring (in some goals, especially in dating since in digital SLR the diaphragm is controlled by the machine body), and then the graft, bayonet or screw (depending on the brand).