Raf Simons Is Leaving Christian Dior
The Belgian designer after three and a half years of collaboration with the French brand interrupted for personal reasons a combination that I think was going very well. Raf Simons has been at the head of Dior’s womenswear line since April 2012, following the dismissal of Johon Galliano and a short transitional period in which Bill Gaytten. Galliano’s assistant, guided the direction of the House.
Already with the first autumn / winter 2012 Simons was inspired by the ’50s, the years of Christian Dior in fact, revisiting the legendary bar jacket of 1947, focusing on the line to A, H, and on the corolla and of all that has helped create the legend of the New Look http://kacamatapedia.com. Probably the garments designed by Simons for Dior will remain less iconic and less memorable of the excesses to which we had become accustomed Johon Galliano, fashion shows less legendary, makeup reinterpreted as a geisha with whom Galliano was paraded his models will be unforgettable for me, but surely Mr. Simons, from the then artistic director of Jil Sander brand minimalissimo, was able to bring his creations more in line with the brand, and also confirm the store: clothing line Dior achieved growth in annual revenue equal to 19%. Perhaps what is missing in these years of collaboration is coordinated aesthetics that leave a deep pass imprenting Raf Simons for Dior.
The spring / summer 2016 presented in the courtyard of the Louvre at Paris Fashion Week, with its contrasts between romantcismo and rigor, between classic and contemporary, tops and skirts inspired by Victorian lingerie, the delicacy and transparency of the fabrics, the classic forms Dior revisited in a minimalist, is therefore the last signed Raf Simons, then the designer will focus mainly on his own line of clothing made exclusively of men’s clothing.
Meanwhile in the house LVMH have left statements about who will be the next creative director who will take the reins of the House, but time is running out, the next mega show Dior is scheduled for January. Meanwhile, we remember that Raf Simons greets the audience after his last show, among the blue flowers of the scene and joined hands in a heart shape. That’s romantic!
The output of Alber Elbaz at Lanvin puts it in pole position among the likely successors of Raf Simons at Dior.
In fact, even then output Galliano had spoken of a very likely candidate to Elbaz for Dior, but the agreement was not reached probably also because of the 10% stake that the designer owns Lanvin.